
So, those of you who follow the link over to
"Never Here Again" have probably already read a report of our trip to Venice, but I will regale with a second account of our lavish four days and three nights in Italy's premier sinking city.
Our trip began by car to Frankfurt Hahn airport. Once parked we waited for the shuttle to the terminal. Or I should say, Rachel waited and I sprinted back to the car with Ellis tied to me in order to save my knife and leatherman from security. I know, I will never learn. Who, this day in age goes to the airport with a knife? Ellis thought the sprint was a carnival ride and giggled like a maniac the whole way while I huffed and puffed and found out that I am in no shape to go sprinting anywhere with an extra 20 pounds tied to my chest.
Our flight got away without incident. Once on the mainland in Italy we bought very reasonably priced 5 Euro tickets for the coach bus to Venice. Then it was the water bus to meet the rental agent and head over to our apartment. Everything went smoothly and we settled in to wait for Bridget and Orrin and Silas. You can read their account of late flights, water busses that were no longer running and Venice at 1 am over on their blog.
While waiting, we went out for some quick food and got our first taste of expensive Venice. A small pizza, very small sandwich, a coke and a bottle of water, was way over 20 Euros. But, Piehole was not deterred and our eating improved greatly the next day.
On Saturday we got up and headed for the famous Rialto market. On the way we had some Paninis including one with seafood salad that was really delicious. The market was the highlight of the trip. The variety of produce was almost unbelievable after the limited selection here in Germany. We brought home sea bream, the freshest shrimp we have ever eaten and a whole bunch of produce. Having

an apartment gave us a lot of flexibility with how we handled meals, and this was a big bonus. On the way back we had a little pizza, nice and crispy and a good deal cheeaper than the frisbee sized disk of the previous night.
Then we were off to Saint Mark's to begin our tour of the embarrassment of cultural riches that is Venice. I can't really even tell you how crazy this place is. Every thing is tiled in gold, encrusted in jewels or otherwise decorated in an outrageous manner. I always picture god in a nice simple white robe, but after seeing one of his houses, I have to conclude, the guy likes his bling.
After a nice visit we headed back to our apartment for a little rest while Bridget and Orrin sought a grocery store. They were unsuccessful but managed to pick up a few things to supplement our dinner, including some white wine and prosecco. W

hile they were out, I gutted and scaled the whole sea bream and made the rest of the preparations for dinner. Our first course was the shrimp, boiled and unadorned. Pretty much the only care used in cooking them was being careful not to over cook them. I wanted to chill them, but was overruled by those who weren't willing to wait. I have to say, these were the best shrimp I have ever eaten. They almost tasted like crab and I might not even have identified them as shrimp in a blind taste test.
Dinner was the bream poached with fennel, white wine and a little tomato. Side dishes were sauteed baby zucchini and pasta with two types of wild mushrooms. We had a little chocolate with our prosecco and a game of cribbage before turning in after a full 24 hours in Venice without gelato.
The next day was largely dedicated to seeing some of the shopping areas and a trip out to Murano island where the really serious glass work is done. In the middle ages, the glass blowers were thrown out of Venice proper because their kilns started damaging fires. They removed themselves to Murano, which on our day there was quite peaceful. We had a sit down 3 course lunch in a restaurant there that I would call just so-so. But, as is often the case in Italy, even the cheap wine on the menu was quite good. After lunch, I tried licorice gelato and it was as bad as you might expect.
On Sunday we also tried the Italian version of tapas while Rachel took a little rest with Ellis. There were about 15-20 hors d'ourve size items in a case for around 1 Euro each. We sampled a broad selection which included canapes of crabmeat, chestnuts or fish and one with slices of octopus in what looked like aspic. Simply put, it looked like octopus head cheese. There were pickled onions wrapped in anchovies and another with raw or possibly lightly cured salmon. Again, a 1.50 Euro glass of cheap red was better than what one would hope for from a glass three times as expensive in an american restaurant.
Sunday's dinner was less impressive. Without having found a grocery store to fill in the gaps, we simply had to make do with the stuff we didn't put in the previous night's supper. So we had big plates of mushroom pasta with broadbeans in tomato sauce and raddichio cooked with apples. It was pretty good and dessert made up for it. We had read about a place which served a dish consisting of a big cup of whipped cream into which they put a brick of very dense ice cream flavored with chocolate and hazelnuts. It was more or less a Nutella sundae. The ice cream was indeed dense and frozen hard enough to be sliced from a bigger brick. The ice cream wasn't especially fatty, but this was made up for by the 3-times-the-volume-of-the-ice-cream portion of whipped cream that went with it. Bridget failed to acknowledge on her blog that as we left she had an additional cone with gelato to fill in the spaces in her belly. I feel that this is an important detail that must be recorded. Other than this hazelnut-chocolate concoction, I generally found the gelato to be dissapointing and not as good as the ice cream we have here in Bammental.
Monday we hit the Doge's palace before heading home. This place, again was an undescribable embarrassement of wealth. Sadly, some of the art is in a state of disrepair. The treasures in this palace include a fresco by Titian that is above a doorway that leads to stairs. One can climb the stairs halfway and view it straight on from only about 10 feet away-close enough to appreciate the labor that must have gone into creating a painting in a plaster skim coat.
After the Doge's palace, we hit a quick museum and then had to repeat the sequence of water bus, land bus, airplane, road bus, car that would get us home. Ellis had a pretty rough flight. I would say he was more or less miserable and everyone knew about it. I have to wonder though, why does a six foot eight, 300 pound Italian getting on a half-full plane think that it is a good idea to sit in the seats at the front where Ryan Air concentrates the babies?
All in all it was a good trip. Venice was really interesting and really expensive. I am glad I have been there, but might never go back. The place is sinking and part of its charm is the fact that it is currently exists in a state between "city" and "ruin". This did give me the feeling, though, that it is no longer a fully alive city, but that it is becoming more of a Venice theme park. That is fine for what it is, but also made it feel a bit hollow.