We headed for Salzburg on Saturday morning and were pleased with ourselves for getting a good deal on direct train tickets since most people had started their weekend on Thursday as Ascension Day is a holiday throughout Catholic Europe. We were looking forward to a relaxing 4 hour train ride that would deposit us on the edge of the Austrian Alps. Just a little over half way through the trip though, the train stopped in the middle of nowhere and it was announced that there had been an accident and we were waiting for emergency personnel to arrive. Eventually, a German man on the train explained to us that "accident" meant someone had committed suicide by jumping in front of the train. Apparently, though, it's fairly common as the same man then said "It'll be about 2 hours; this happens a lot in November, not so much in May." And indeed, we were de

layed just over 2 hours while police cleaned up the scene and a new conductor was brought on board (the previous conductor was badly shaken and "seeing white mice").
Despite the sad, slow start to our trip, we were very happy to meet up with our friends Ben and Elissa in Salzburg. We walked through
Mirabell Garden, picking out the various spots made famous by the
Sound of Music. Ben and Trey begged us to book a Sound of Music tour but Elissa and I refused. We agreed to take their photo in front of the appropriately painted cow, but you can see th

at they are disappointed and pouting. We crossed the Salzach River and headed toward the
previously mentioned Augustiner Braustubl. This is a beer garden owned by a monastery, although there are no monks to be seen. The monks still make the beer but it is served by ...civilians...laymen? Anyway, the neat thing about this place (besides the beautiful shady beer garden and the good
Maerzen) is that the monks have made it possible for several vendors of traditional food to set up on site. You walk through shopping ala carte and then head out into the beer garden for a picnic. I can't really describe the array of available dishes adequately, but there were 20 cold salads, at least a dozen meat choices, a dozen side dishes (besides the salads), two dozen bakery items and a few additional snacks. We couldn't get enough of th

e ribs (maybe Ellis had more than we thought) and we also had an excellent smoked ham hock in addition to several dried sausages. The ribs came with a potato with quark and chives and a cold cabbage dish that was crispy and cold like slaw but sour like kraut. We also sampled some pickled herring, garlic olives and a very old fashioned concoction of smoked and then pickled onions that were excellent. We had some strange dumplings filled with meat as well and a traditional beer snack of thinly shaved white radishes with lots of salt which was surprisingly good, but could have used even more salt. The braustubl had an authentic, less touristy feel (the vendors didn't speak English), so it was a fun, relaxing start to our trip.
With full tummies we headed to our lodgings, a rather large pension about 4 km outside of the
town center. Other than a distinct old cheese smell, we were pretty happy with the accommodations. However, 10 minutes after removing my socks I learned that we were sharing our room with several other guests: mosquitoes. Poor Ellis ended up with several bites on his face. Two days later, the owner of the hotel informed us that the mysterious air freshener- type devices in our rooms were actually mosquito repellents. We had neglected to plug them in, fearing they were the source of the cheese smell. The next morning at breakfast, we discovered the real source of the smell. You guessed it: cheese. It was seriously vile stuff that Elissa speculated was produced by routinely marinating it in the "juice" squeezed from dirty sweat socks. 
The next morning we took the funicular railway up to the
Festung Hohensalzburg and toured the inside including the marionette museum. Since the fortress is situation high on a hill, it also afforded great views of the town and surrounding mountains. After a quick lunch at a Chinese buffet we headed down to the river for a
boat tour. While we waited, we sampled the delights at a fortuitously located gelato stand. Though I have never been a fan of Salzburg's premier confection,
Mozartkugeln, the chocolate-pistachio gelato flavor based on it is quite delicious. The river boat cruise was a nice chance to sit down and relax, but otherwise not especially inspirational. These boat cruises are fairly new, as the Salzach River is shallow and fast moving, so many passenger boats cannot navigate it. Last stop of the day was
Hellbrunn Palace and gardens, just outside of Salzburg. It is famous largely in part for its trick fountains, which are "surprises" operate by the tour guides. More interesting to us were the clockwork type figures that were powered only by water/ gravity, but this places seems to be mostly all about getting the tourists wet. Hilarous.
For our final day in Salzburg, we decided to follow the self-guided walkin

g tour on the Old City as described in one of the guidebooks. One the subject of this, I must mention that I found it very funny that Elissa derogatorily referred to
Rick Steves as "Steve" whenever she disagreed with his recommendation or did not enjoy his humor. Salzburg has several impressive churches and most were either built or refinished in the Baroque style. We learned that this was because Archbishop Wolf Dietrich was trying to recreate Salzburg in the image of Rome. We visited the
Dom,
Franziskanerkirche (one of the city's first cathedrals, which was later ceded to the Franciscan monks), and the
Stiftskirche St. Peter and it's graveyard/ catacombs. It was amazing to see so many beautiful churches in such a small space and we didn't even get to the Kollegienkirche. Another important stop on Monday was the
Cafe Konditorei Furst, home of the original Mozartkugeln. Though I do think theirs were better than the
mass produced ones they were nothing compared to their delicious cakes, which included Austria's signature
sachertorte and Mozart torte that, like the gelato, was better than the candy that inspired it. We also visited the overwhelming shop Easter in Salzburg, which features handpainted eggs for all seasons. Finally, we stopped by a market to purchase fruit, bread, cheese, and sausage to eat on the train ride home. We were fortunate to have fairly empty train cars for most of the ride, so once Ellis finally gave into sleep, we sat around comfortably and had a nice chat with Ben and Elissa.
Ellis was a pretty good little travele

r this trip. He's learned to drink fairly efficiently out of both regular cups and sippy cups. When given the sippy cup in the stroller he was able to amuse himself with it in the following fashion 1) drink water until no longer thirsty 2) shake cup rapidly, spraying water everywhere until all the water is gone 3) repeatedly drop cup off side of stroller and grin when some Mom or Dad bends over to pick it up. He's also developed a habit of saying "whoa" a lot. I'm not sure that it's anything other than a noise he likes, but it was cute when he's pull himself up against the train window and make a sound that seemed to convey so much wonder and awe.
More photos
here.